Shearing...4...The Procedure
Topic: Coat Care 101

So, here we are all ready to clip our bunny. Off to the cage we go and coax the furry victim out...now what?

 Consider spending a few minutes talking to and calming your rabbit. While you embark on this, sit on your low stool, and place her across your knees with her head pointing to your left if you are right handed (to your right if you are left handed). Encourage her to drop her back feet off your lap, resting on her stomach by gently (!) holding her back feet together in one hand and s-t-r-e-t-c-h-i-n-g her feet down and away off your knees. Some rabbits will respond to this easily if they are feeling mellow, and some you have to encourage. But persist with this as when the rabbit's weight is off her feet, she will settle down better and lay quietly. Now take a moment to clip off whatever needs shortening around her head and ears:

Use your hands to flatten her ears and clip away. 

Next, you want to roll her, on her side, so her feet rest up against your abdomen and begin shearing a narrow line from her back foot,

up her thigh, across her groin, alongside her belly and to her left front foot:
All the way to her eye at the front. This little pathway will be your guideline for the rest of the job.

Now you will attend to serious fiber removal starting at her tail:

and along her belly. Flatten the long fiber away from you, hold the scissors parallel to her skin, slide them across the base of the fiber just above the narrow line you are working from, turn them a tad up to leave a 1/4-1/2" of fiber behind, and snip. Do not try to take off too much at a time. Each lock that you snip can fall to the floor as you move along.

Work in successive rows to completely remove all fiber. I like to work in a section at a time, clearing 4x4", before I move on to the next section. It is helpful to position the rabbit so that the clipping area is on top, and you can roll your bunny to get the best position for your hands/scissors before you start. You will reposition her many times befoe you are done, and practicing patience will offer its own rewards in a calmer rabbit and an easier clip.

I work in successtion from the starting line to clear

• the left side (from tail to eye...)
  
• the top 
• the right side
• the belly
• the genitals
• the chin/chest
  

When working near the belly, be aware that mature does have large nipples...at least 6 and sometimes 8. They are placed starting on the chest just above the front underarms, and continue in pairs along the belly towards the tail.

Find them before you start clipping the belly fur and clip around them carefully. If you are in hurry, just leave all belly fur long at 3/4" and you will not hurt them. 

Whew! You both are ready for a break after 45-60 minutes of this work. Take it!

Shearing...3...Tools of the Trade
Topic: Coat Care 101
BareHare is back on line after a hiatus of 2 months (I hope that any vacation you take is as rejuvenating for you as mine has been for me!) The bunnies and I are gearing up for the Rip Van Winkle Angora Spinning Retreat There are 5 Wee Ones who will be ready for shearing at the retreat, and they are leaving their mamas next week for digs of their own. (Pictures will come when they settle in).

I do have a slew of shearing pictures for you that will arrive daily this week on the blog, but first, let's gather the tools you'll need.



Arrange these all on a low table near you BEFORE you start: (clockwise from bottom right)
1. Plastic tablecloth for catching all that lovely clean angora while you clip. If you just "let it fall", you'll proceed much faster.
2. Slicker brush
3. 5" Shearing scissors
4. "Guillotine" nail clippers
5. Syringe for administering ivermectin
6. Cat/dog flea powder containing carbaryl
7. Plastic netting for clipped angora storage
8. Low stool to sit on while shearing
9. Bucket to hold clipped angora on a windy day (and it will overflow if your angora is German!)

Shearing...2
Topic: Coat Care 101
Webbing is what coats do just before they are getting ready to mat or molt(fall off). The rabbit is either moving around alot or is scratching and causes the fiber to jumble back on itself. Webbing happens due to daily living and as a result of chemical changes in the shedding breeds. Or, from something that causes bunny to itch and scratch, such as fur mites, and, occasionally, from high humidity.

All breeds will web eventually, but the magic of awn hair in the German angora coat causes this to happen less often. It works like grease...it isolates the other fibers and allows them to resettle in a straight line. It is what allows me to leave an angora coat alone for 4 months and then just clip it off...much like sheep shearing. There is some waste, but not that much. The German lines were bred to not shed, allowing the coat to stay fully intact until one arrives with the scissors. The Giant angora breed has the same awn hair in the line, but can shed, so as long as one keeps an eye on the coat for its internal release time, they are also fabulously easy to care for.

Folks who show their rabbits keep ahead of webbing by brushing and blowing coats out on a regular basis. A healthy percentage of guard hair in an adult coat will keep even that at a minimum, so the French are, as a breed, a little easier to care for than the others. But a good English rabbit with a great percentage of guard hair is a wonder.

Over the years, coat removal has enjoyed a few swings. The predominance of shedding in the earlier lines of English and French led to widespread plucking of shedding wool. This presents a FABULOUS spinning fiber! It is not so fabulous for the animal if the coat is not ready for removal, but the spinner is. OR for the spinner who would like the whole coat, and not just the area around the shoulders, as coats release in stages over a week or so. It takes many, many hours to do it humanely and completely, and wool block is a real issue for these rabbits while the coat loosens over time.

Enter: The Clip. For an hour of your time invested, you can have 8 ounces (or more!) of same length fiber on a fully producing German rabbit. This is a skill worth learning if you are a serious fiber producer or an eager spinner.

Start by learning to control your bunny. This is easier said than done! Rabbits can have a mind of their own but there are a few gems to remember:

1. Towels are your best friend. Wrapping bunny will help settle him down and cause flailing appendages to be controlled.
2. When you have the ears, you have the rabbit. Learn to tuck those ears down his back and pin them there.
3. A rabbit without his weight under him will sit still. Get bunny off his feet and either on his side or back. Tuck his head under your arm and against your side to reach those nether parts under his tail.
4. Rabbits are touchy about their whiskers and their flanks. Do not hold and squeeze these areas (this is also easier said than done).
5. Stretch out his body. Learn to hold both feet and straighten out his back and legs.
6. Perfect the "hang". Sit on a low stool and drape your relaxed bunny over both knees.

7. Take your time. A well clipped left side might be enough for one session in the beginning.

Shearing...1
Topic: Coat Care 101
Getting a fully grown 3, 4 or 5 month coat off an angora can happen any way you can, as in Emergency Coat Removal, or you can carefully remove the full length of each fiber for spinning... This means that this animal:

can yield 3, 4 or 5" long angora, and end up looking like this:

Shearing to the skin takes practice. The first few years I sheared my rabbits, I was happy with a 1/2 inch of fiber left on the animal, leaving them looking like this:

and with no nicks, cuts or the like. And, in the winter, this is what I leave on the rabbit to help him keep warm. So, learn first to shear carefully. As you progress, shear to the skin where you can and when you and the rabbit are both relaxed enough to handle it.

I keep mostly German (over 60%) crossed angoras that do not require any brushing, and I don't do any at all for 3-4" coats. (I'll talk about 5" coats in another post). But, I do accept a small amount of matting at the armpits and the whiskers that are the result of daily living. These areas get clipped off and discarded, so the coats I take off have a small amount of loss (less than 1 ounce). I also clip under the tail and inside the back legs to the skin and toss it every month. It makes keeping more than 4 angoras much less time consuming for me. People that keep their angoras in full coat and show them have my highest admiration!!!

Short coats are when to start wool/fur mite prevention
Topic: Coat Care 101

Now that your rabbits are as close to Bare Hare status as possible, you have the best opportunity to clean up any fur mite populations that have moved in. Rabbits groom themselves clean as often as they can, and a short coat allows them full access to their skin. They are delightfully happy in a short coat! You can work with them by purging their system of critters.

There are many schools of thought on insect management, and coexistence. For years I worked with very little pesticide and tried alternative methods. I had sporadic luck with ground Rosemary brushed into coats every week and I felt pretty good about treating the rabbits naturally. But it is labor intensive, and I was not consistent enough in the treatment to keep the critters away. At this point in time, I have a reinfestation problem that is partly due to the age of the wood barns I keep my rabbits in, and the fact that hay is stored there, along with field mice and the local cat population, all of whom harbor fur mites. So, it is a continual battle for me and any fiber production quotas I might like to strive for.

Fur mites, wool mites do not hurt rabbits.
Here is a picture of Listrophorus gibbus And here is a picture of Cheyletiella parasitovorax. They are just an annoyance and cause bunny to itch. There may be diseases they CAN bring to the rabbit, myxomytosis being one of them, but my area of the world doesn't seem prone to this. Some rabbit breeders I know complain about their own skin reactions to one of the mites, probably Cheyletiella, so it is a good idea to keep populations low or non-existent. AND, it is a drag to care for a coat for 3 months and then, all of a sudden, have it mat into uselessness because bunny got itchy! This has happened more than I care to think about here, and since I treasure every ounce of fiber, I have come up with an intense system of coat management that works for keeping coats open and free flowing.

My thanks to everyone who has shared their stories about mite infestations. It is surprising how few rabbit breeders are forthcoming about the mite situation...it is not addressed fully anywhere in my many angora books, but rather alluded to as an "occasional" condition. The dosages suggested for ivermectin use were very low and totally ineffective in my herd. Since it is chronic here, I had to hunt for information from more experienced rabbit folks to get the info I needed to treat it effectively.

For folks with just one or two angoras who are kept inside or away from outside contamination, once the mites are wiped out, you may not see them again for years. But they reside in hay, and on cats, dogs, field mice, hamsters, gerbils, rats, raccoons, etc. So, knowing how to deal with them is good management.

Both mites live on the skin of the rabbit, and munch on dead fur/skin cells. Rabbits can groom them off when their fur is short, and keep infestations at bay. Once a coat gets longer than 2 inches, bunny can't always get to all his skin. And, he always has a tough time getting behind his ears/back of his neck. And, most importantly, the mite can travel up on the fur shaft and hide out until any skin medicine has lost its punch. So, you have to step in and help with any mites that find their way into these areas of his coat. Cat/dog flea powder that contains CARBARYL is effective on contact, but you have to reapply it weekly (the same deal as the ground Rosemary)for 3-4 weeks to get all the life stages of the mite. IVERMECTIN is effective and has proven safe for decades, although its use is extra-label. I have outlined how I have used it in the past on these BareHare posts:
1, 2, 3, 4.
The bonus is the quickness and effectiveness of this pesticide. Ivermectin works by exuding a toxic effect to anything that rests on the skin. When the coat is short, the toxin works immediately and wipes out every mite that is near the skin on all parts of the rabbit. Years ago I injected it, and it is very effective that way. Now I administer the dose orally, as it is easier on me and the bunnies. If you read the older BareHare posts you will see how the dosage information has changed over the years. I am indebted to Elaine Harvey for helping me make the move to larger doses as it has made ALL the difference in the fur mite populations here, and the EXCELLENT coats I am now seeing. Who knew that last year, when I was unceremoniously banned from the Spinlist for writing the truth about sick rabbits being sold at a fair, that a champion in the form of Elaine would come into my life? Her work with rabbit rescue and her own angora herd is extensive, and she has seen a lot. Fortuitous, indeed.

At any rate, the ORAL doses used for my 10-12 pound German crossbred rabbits are on the order of 1.5 cc IVOMEC INJECTABLE 1% every 4 weeks, without fail. (If any infestation is evident, these doses are repeated every 2 weeks 3x). Once the coat gets to 2", I dust bunny with a sprinkle or two of HAPPY JACK flea powder once a month in those places that bunny can't reach. (Back of the neck; ears; above the tail, and between the hind legs). This double barreled defense seems to be working...for the last 6 months I have not seen ONE fur mite. But I have seen my beloved 5" coats come off with nary a mat.

It took a long time for me to get comfortable with dosing my herd in this way, I worried over genetic problems with breeding; with stomach issues after dosing the rabbits, but Ivermectin has one of the best track records with rabbits and so far weights/health have not suffered. I DID find that using generic ivermectin caused unrest with my rabbits for 24 hours after dosing, so I switched back to IVOMEC and all has remained well. The last hurdle is breeding, but I am confident from others' experiences that I need not worry here. And so I won't.

I will continue to collect information on fur/wool mites and medications/treatments that work. If you have any experiences or suggestions, please feel free to e-mail. I would love to chat about it!

Starting With A Bare Hare
Topic: Coat Care 101

Folks who rescue adult angoras are often thrilled with the lushness of the coat and call or write me to ask how to care for it. Sometimes the coat is in great shape, but with rescues, often it is not. They mention it is thick and hard to run their hands through and although bunny's face is matted, they can't WAIT to spin the coat.

It is my job to let them down easily as this is not a coat they will be spinning. Many times it is a struggle to get the coat off the rabbit and will take hours/weeks of careful clipping. They are discouraged and disappointed to hear this, and I suggest some reading about coat care and a revaluation of their expectations.

But, all is not lost, as true angora lovers may be born at this point.

To give yourself and your bunny the BEST coat possible, you need to start at Bare Hare level. The actual clipping job for SPINNABLE fiber will be outlined at the end of this series, but get the entire coat off your rabbit any way you can. I include Emergency Coat Removal info here.

EMERGENCY COAT REMOVAL
This will take a few sessions, so do not obsess with getting it all off at once. While you are removing this coat, it is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT that you feed your bunny COPIOUS AMOUNTS OF HAY. I suggest you line the entire cage with fresh hay each morning and expect bunny to eat most of it each night. Any loose fiber that remains after a grooming session will be licked off by the rabbit, and there must be hay in his gut to help move this through his digestive system.

Your rabbit probably does not know you well yet (or you her). You may not be comfortable with handling her. One of the easiest ways to keep your bunny calm is to use a towel and wrap up as much of him/her as you can, exposing just the parts you need to clip down. When you flatten the long ears of an angora rabbit and hold them down, she will hold still. An old rabbit raiser taught me that "When you have the ears, you have the rabbit". So, work on this at every session. Flatten her ears, and wrap her head with ears pinned to her back. This will help keep her still.

I like to sing to my rabbits. Or hum. Or play some classical/new age music. It helps keep both of you calm. One of the nicest things about handling angora rabbits is the peace they offer. Take advantage of this from Day 1. Tell her how pretty she is and how much better she'll feel when the mats come off (and she will).

Get a 5" pair of sharp scissors with as blunt of an end as you can find/make. Put them near you. Sit on the floor with bunny in your lap OR on a low stool so your knees are higher than your lap. You want your legs to be comfortable for 30-45 minutes, so take the time to make sure they remain so. Put bunny in your lap and cuddle for 3 or 4 minutes minimum. Do this EVERY TIME!

Decide which section of the coat to tackle. Start with her head and clip bad looking things off. With your opposite hand, pull up on fur you want to clip, making sure you are an inch above her skin. Don't worry about getting down to her skin level, just take off what you can and make the coat shorter. You will find that if you probe any mat with your thumb and index finger, you can wiggle down around the edges and feel where the skin is underneath the mat. So clip off the surface of the mat, and keep feeling down to where her skin is to remind your scissors where everything is.

Make short snips with your scissors. Maybe an inch long. Maybe two. I have seen people work with 9" shears and accidents happen more. With 5" scissors, it may take longer, but there are fewer mishaps.

Rabbits are territorial about their whiskers and the sides of their faces (along with their chins). You will have some resistance when you go after these spots. Turn bunny away from you and go in from behind while talking/singing the whole time. If you can put a hand on top of their heads while you do this it will help. An assistant will make this easier.

Proceed over her entire body this way, but don't stress bunny OR yourself by doing more than 30-45 minutes at a time. Take a potty break (both of you) if you want to continue past that time.

When you get to the tail/genitals, you will want to abandon everything. I know it's hard. Do this end when you are clear headed and will have no distractions. Wrap up bunny and lay her on her side in your lap, keeping one elbow down along her side so her weight is off her feet. Find her tail, and start clipping carefully to expose it (it is surprisingly long). Trim all around it. Turn bunny so her stomach faces up and trim carefully and slowly between her back legs and up her stomach. Keep feeling for skin so you know where you are. If you have a guy, watch for guy parts and trim around them.

Before you end any session, use a slicker brush to collect as much half-cut fur as you can from any edges/areas. Then try not to look at your funny bunny and just let him munch on hay until you can find time for another session. Keep rabbit food at a minimum and hay at an maximum for the ENTIRE TIME you are working on removing the coat.