Back in the (pattern writing) saddle, again
Topic: percentage knitting

 Three weeks will see the first Countrywool Sock Weekend. This winter will see the first Countrywool Sock Weekend Retreat. I am up to my ears in editing sock patterns for teaching. I hope that all knitters who attend these gatherings will come away with a clear understanding of 3 distinct and different ways to make socks. A bonus at these retreat/weekend gatherings are the new knitting skills knitters add to their repertoires: Figure 8 Cast On; Twisted German Cast on; sewn down Cast Off; long circular seamless sock magic loop knitting, etc. These weekends will be jam packed with new and exciting ways to enjoy making the mundane yet much beloved sock. 

As I try to be as exact as I can about detailed instructions for those moments when they will NOT be at the weekend and can ask questions, I know there will be stupid errors in any pattern I write. I agonize over how to eliminate as many of them as I can, so that knitters can enjoy the pleasure of working continuously and with great success through my directions. This is the cry of any pattern writer, and she is dependent upon expert knitters/pattern testers to proof knit her directions. I am lucky that many of my knitting friends will check out my directions for goofs and typos, and I always include a phone number/e-mail on the finished pattern so knitters can get to me right away with any question.

But, I am continually amazed at how helpful a spreadsheet can be when working up the particulars for any set of directions. I have been using Microsoft EXCEL for 2 years now, and every time I go back to it to check on sizing variations, I am again grateful that it can be so helpful so quickly. I cannot tell you how often my Algebra skills have come into play as I work out unique pattern formulas, and then EXCEL will just convert all 12 sizes in an instant. 

This is true magic.  

The Peace Fleece Socks pattern will have a Figure 8 Cast On, worked on one long circular needle in the magic loop style, with a Peasant Heel and Sewn Off Bind Off. It will fit feet 5" around to 12" around. And if I am really lucky, EXCEL caught all the inequities in the pattern process.

 I am toying with organizing a Pattern Writing Retreat at Countrywool. Anyone interested? Let me know.

You're never too old to floss...or swatch
Topic: cables

I think I am so smart that I can judge a new-to-me yarn and can guess what it'll do after knitting and blocking. 

Ha!  

Here is the first swatch I knit on #8 Brittany walnut needles (my last full unbroken pair, so I like to use them when I can). The Brittanies are single point straight needles, and dragging the stitches along did not allow for a tighter gauge. It appears a little loose after being knit, but not out of line:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Then I washed it, and had QUITE the revelation about what this yarn does, so I quickly got another set of needles and reswatched. I used Flex Needles this time, which allow the majority of the stitches to relax when they are not being worked. The new swatch was washed and behaved much better. Both are shown side by side: (new on the left and original one on the right):

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So, after all this, it looks like my knitting gauge is 4.75 sts=1" in cabled pattern. Curiously, the row gauge is almost square: 4.8 rows =1".

 Now I start thinking about mapping where cables might go, and how to create a fold line down the front pieces to allow for the double breasted closure Betsi wants. 

Stay tuned.

Betsi's cables
Topic: cables

We have searched and searched through books and magazines, and the important word for Betsi and her new sweater is BIG. Her cables need to be big and bold. She doesn't want an all-over cabled look, either, rather showcasing the one or two that are in the sweater, with lots of plain knitting surrounding them. 

I am thinking a lacey cable will help somewhat with the weight of this thing.

 So, armed with a few ideas and possibilities we found these past weeks, I am going to knit a few swatches for her perusal. 

The current issue of VOGUE KNITTING has an interesting BIG cable:

But, of course, it is not exactly what she is looking for. I spent some time this morning tweaking it, and will swatch this evening if all goes well. Here is the chart I will use (sorry about no symbol key..pressed for time):

I am using VENEZIA from Cascade Yarns; merino wool and silk. I suspect I'll get about 3 sts=1" in stocking stitch, but we'll see what the cabling does to the gauge.

A new sweater on the horizon
Topic: percentage knitting

Just when my knitting was getting organized and manageable, along comes another request from Betsi for a sweater I don't normally design for: a cardigan. But a FABULOUS yarn is now in stock here and it would be terrific for what she has in mind, so I am tackling it. 

The yarn in question is Venezia, a lovely, wear-next-to-your-skin merino wool and silk bulky yarn that is crying to become a soft cabled sweater. The color she picked is medium navy blue. 

She has plans for a unique shape that would include an offset single clasped center with a deep shawl collar, along with flared sleeves. I have found a few shapes that are close to what she wants: 

...this pink one has the wrong sleeves and no cables, and is too short, but the body shape and closure line is good.

...this brown one has the cabled look I want, although the rest is not good.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

...this natural colored one has the right shawl depth.

So, my job is to put all three ideas together in a sweater. Sounds easy enough. Stay tuned. I plan to write this pattern on the blog so it will be free for all. (And it may end up BEING a free-for-all!)

Next post: cabled gauge swatches that make a knitters' heart sing. 

Kid's Faroe Blossom Sweater...after blocking
Topic: faroese knitting

It is always an act of faith for me when I knit to make a specific size in a new yarn. I gauge and swatch and gauge and swatch and wash and block many hats before I settle on a "blocking ratio" change. Two stranded color knitting can change size dramatically after blocking. Yarns vary in their elasticity. And, most importantly, knitters vary in their tensioning systems while they knit with two strands of yarn at the same time.

I have discovered that "I" will gain about 1.5" of width and an inch of length when I block Dale's Norwegian wool HEILO yarn. (This on a child's sweater). This discovery took quite a few hats until I was satisfied I was consistent. So, I knit my desired sweater 1" shorter than I wanted (1/2" in the body and 1/2" in the shoulder) and used a WORKING GAUGE of 6.5 sts=1", rather than the 6 sts=1" that measures in the final washed hat.

The final result:

The washing method I use for blocking: use HOT water and a tablespoon of your favorite shampoo. Soak for 20 minutes. Lift the sweater out of the basin carefully and let drip. Run hotter water in the basin, gently squeeze the drips out of the soapy sweater and immerse in the hot water, letting soak 10 minutes. Remove the sweater and carry to the washing machine. Turn off ALL water valves so no water at all can enter the washer. Set the washer for SPIN, and if you can, a gentle cycle. Spin for about 10 minutes. 

Find the measurements desired in the beginning, and lay out your sweater, front side down, on a thick towel or clean bedspread, using a yardstick to move the warm knitting around to your specifications. Leave the sweater alone for 6 hours, then turn it over and repat into size. Let dry at least a full day (more if you are in humid air).

Just a note on the construction of this sweater; I am CONTINUALLY DELIGHTED with the tidy shoulder lines that circular knitting brings to any garment. It is a challenge to get all the patterns centered as you join body and sleeves, so that the patterns decrease in a pleasing and balanced way as you knit around up to the neck. I find writing patterns for these designs to be incredibly challenging (which is part of the fun), but the smooth knitting that results is rewarding.

This sweater is one of 3 designs that will be available at the Cape Ann Faroe Sweater Knitting Retreat next March, in sizes 6 months through Men's XXXL.

 

Kid's Faroe Blossom Sweater...before blocking
Topic: faroese knitting

 

 

Having spent the last 2 months vacationing from blog writing (among other things) I have returned to tackle my favorite knitting topic: blocking.

In the Knitting Doctor Sessions I run here at Countrywool once or twice a month, the effectiveness of blocking has to be one of the biggest surprises for most knitters. What is there about hot water and soap, along with flat drying, that creates such harmony and unity in a natural fiber garment? How is it that your so-so knitted project can blossom and align itself in a most professional manner after a few simple steps? 

Above you see the finished Kid's Faroe Blossom Sweater (one of the featured patterns at next year's Cape Ann Faroe Sweater Knitting Retreat ) BEFORE BLOCKING. I will now wash it and post the next picture when it is dry, along with a full explanation of how I go about it. 

A Lighter Blossom Hat
Topic: faroese knitting

This pastel, but still all natural color, version of the Blossom hat feels springlike. It sports a complete tubular edge of 12 rounds.

I hate the edge. It really doesn't behave the way I want it to. Still, it looks fine, but is not worth the extra trouble.

I am working on a third hat right now, in a different pattern chart. Picture coming next week. It will have just a 4 round tubular edge, and I am LIKING it. Have also tried a percentage change in the ribbing to see if that will give me what I like. When switching from a single rib to a 2-stranded stockinette color pattern, wonky things happen to the fabric created.

New Faroe Designs...The Blossom Hat
Topic: faroese knitting

I dug my needles into Faroe knitting while I was still at the Nordic Retreat. Hats are always the first item on the list when contemplating a new sweater design, as they are a great tool for checking out color combinations and edge treatments as well as circular gauge.

I experimented with tubular cast on styles and intensities, wanting to offer that at the retreats next year. I really like the edge one gets. Used for just a few rounds, it is super. Used for the entire hem-edge, I am not so sure I like it. I have a second hat waiting in the wings, drying while being blocked. I will report in a few days about the differences between them.

The hat above sailed out of here on Bob's head Sunday while still wet. (He has new friends who are knitters and he wanted to show it to them). Well, it came back this morning on his head. Since it is a cool day, and he whined so nicely, I let him keep it for a bit, but made him sit for the picture. I elicited a PROMISE that as soon as it gets hot, the hat comes back for the summer, so I can display it in the shop.

Countrywool in the News!

The Berkshire Eagle ran a story about knitting today, and Countrywool got some play. Nice article about shop owners and their take on the industry and knitters in our area.

Next in the retreat plans...Faroese sweaters
Topic: faroese knitting
I have been fascinated for a long, long time by the ethereal beauty of Faroese color patterns in sweaters. Simple, simple, natural sheep colors used in small repeated patterns make for easy knitting and warm clothing. In the Norwegian tradition, such two layer fabric can weather hard wear, and is very beautiful.

"The Faroe Islands are 18 tiny islands situated in the North Atlantic, between Iceland and Norway. Only 45.000 people live on the islands. Still it’s a nation of it’s own with own culture and own language."
So begins an intro on the Faroese design website of Gudrun & Gudrun, two designing women from the Faroe Islands. Sheep and wool are enjoying a resurgence and are once again a good business there, but it was not always so. The Islands and the sheep have struggled over the centuries. If you find their history as interesting as I do, you will enjoy this article.

Knitting came to the Islands in the late 1500's, and within a very short time, the quota of knitted socks that were exported reached in the hundreds of thousands. Sweaters were hand knitted at large gauges and sold in the mid 1900's. Here is an original design by Meg Swansen with Faroe color stitch patterns. Many times the marketed sweaters were turtlenecks. Most were steeked to add in the sleeves. Many sported natural sheep colors and all had lovely, simple to knit repeated small color stitch patterns that employed almost no float wrapping, which would slow down a knitter.

Over the years I have dabbled with Faroe stitches in some hat patterns I've written. On the left is FAROE BANDED HAT and on the right is FAROE VINE HAT. They are quite fun to knit and go remarkably fast even with two colors as there is no fiddling with the carried color. For the three sweater patterns, three hat patterns, and one sock pattern I have in my head, I hope to fully explore the use of 9 different natural sheep colors in the next year. I will break with tradition to create sweater patterns that do not have steeks, but rather raglan shoulder shapings, so that the entire garment can be worked continuously on circular needles, with only a few underarm stitches left to graft at the end.